For many people, the garage is a storage room. But a garage can get so overrun by stored items that the room becomes unusable. But with a little planning, a garage can be both a storage place, and also a functional garage: car storage, workshop, etc. Here’s a few tips to keeping your garage well organized, so that it serves a dual purpose.
Vertical Storage is important in any storage situation. It increases a room’s usable square footage. It makes it easy to find stored items. You can build your own vertical storage, by hanging brackets from the studs, and then placing shelving boards over the brackets. The job is simple and easy for almost any eager DIY’er. Step one: find the studs—easy if the studs are exposed, but if your garage has sheetrock, you can use a simple stud finder. Step two: drill pilot holes and then screw in the brackets. Step three: add the shelving. See, it’s easy.
Vertical storage can also be bought, and, for many, this is a good option. Metal shelves are durable and will last a long time.
Vertical tool storage makes it easy to find the right tool at the right time. Peg board is the most commonly used material to hang tools. You can attach the peg board to the studs in the wall, and then hang the tools (lighter tools such as hand tools) from the pegs. Simple and easy.
Many items can be put into bins for uncluttered storage. Consider putting alike items together in the same bin. You can label the outside of the bins with permanent marker. For storage for smaller items, such as nails, screws, etc., you can purchase small cabinets. Otherwise, you can use plastic bins. If you are using plastic bins to store hardware, then make sure the hardware is contained within a clear plastic bag, and the outside of the bag is labelled in marker.
If you have any questions about garage storage, your King’s Ace Hardware home expert is ready to help.
Did you know that King’s Ace Hardware can help you send packages via USPS (United States Postal Service)? It’s true. King’s Ace can provide you with packaging and supplies, then send off your packages, and then also provide you with delivery confirmation and insurance via USPS. Pretty handy. Hours at which King’s Ace handles post are M-F: 9 a.m.—6 p.m., and Saturdays from 9 a.m.—2 p.m.
Let’s talk about mail. Do you know how to install a new mailbox? Did you know that all the tools you’ll need for the job are at your local King’s Ace Hardware? It’s true.
You will need a shovel—preferably a spade shovel for digging. A post hole digger can make the job simpler and the hole more accurate, although it’s not an entirely necessary tool. You will need a tarp, or some type of ground cover to keep the dirt after you remove it from the hole. A long post level. A sledgehammer or a long two by four (the two by four does the job of tamping, although it’s not nearly as convenient as the sledge). A new mailbox and a box of decking screws.
First you will need to dig your hole. Use the spade shovel or post hole digger to dig your hole to the precise depth as required by the mailbox you purchased. There are certain mailbox requirements via the USPS (see them here: https://www.usps.com/manage/mailboxes.htm) stating the front of the mailbox should be no more than 6-8 inches from the curb and forty-one to forty-five inches from the ground to the bottom of the box. Set the mailbox in the dug hole and determine how it’s level by holding the post level against the mailbox’s post. Hold it plumb (it’s easiest to do this part of the job with a helper, anyone to help hold the mailbox level) and then backfill the hole with about one foot of dirt. Tamp down the dirt with the sledge or the two by four, keeping the mailbox level. Loose soil won’t keep the mailbox held in place. Keep adding soil at small increments and tamping it down until the hole is filled.
If you have any further questions as to how to install a new mailbox, or which mailbox would be best suited to adorn the front walk at your home, come into King’s Ace Hardware today and speak with an Ace expert.
Stone, brick, or concrete paths can make beautiful additions to any home’s landscape. And, with just a few simple tools and equipment, and a few hours to spend, it’s a doable project for most anyone.
Determine where your path will go. Design before you remove grass or start digging holes. You can lay out the general design using a few wooden stakes placed at two-foot intervals. When you have the size and shape you want—make sure to use a measuring tape to ensure the path is uniform—then spray paint the lines on the grass. It should be easy to do if you have placed the stakes at two-foot intervals—spray from one stake to the next.
If you have sod in the area, it’s time to remove it. You could buy or rent a sod cutter, but a simple shovel will work as well. To use the shovel—a sharp-edged, flat-nosed turf shovel works best for the cutting—simply put the blade on your spray-painted line and step down on the shovel. It’s best to know how deep your substrate (the material you’re using to build the path) is, and then take that measurement and add three more inches for a layer of sand. If the shovel you’re working with has a cutting-depth greater than your intended depth, you could place a piece of tape—something bright like sports tape or other colorful tape—to mark the depth of the cut on the shovel. Trace out the outline of your path on the sod with the shovel, and then make several horizontal cuts through the center. From the edges peel up the sod in strips, lifting it end to end. Measure the depth of the path you’ve created, and, if it’s not deep enough, then use the flat-nosed shovel to remove more.
When your path is dug out, add a three-inch layer of sand. Rake the sand level. Once you have the sand raked level by eye, place your rock or brick down in whatever pattern you’ve chosen. You will need a dead blow hammer to seat those stones down in the sand—a simple hand mallet would work fine for smaller substrate like brick. The only rule to remember here is to keep the top of the pathway level. When your path is set up, add more sand to fill in the spaces between.
King’s Ace Hardware has all the tools and equipment you will need for this project—including the wheel barrow to move around materials—and the expert technicians at King’s Ace Hardware are ready to help.
Clogged toilets happen. It’s inevitable, but there’s certain tips and tricks to getting unclogged quickly. Letting it sit for a while rarely works. So, what are your options? Plunger, and, if that doesn’t do the job, a toilet snake. Here’s how.
You wouldn’t think there’s anything to talk about when you talk about using a toilet plunger, but, there is. First, not all plungers work the same. Some plungers are flat at the end of the cup—these are the most common. These types of plungers work fine—they’re also the least expensive, usually—although they are somewhat finicky to get in just the right position. Some plungers have a flange at the end of the cup. The flange seats the plunger directly over the opening, and creates a tighter, less finicky, seal.
When you use a plunger, you will want the toilet to be filled enough with water that the plunger’s cup submerges. These creates more pressure with which to push things through. Plunge with alternating long strokes and quick ones, until the clog undoes itself. If the plunger is not enough, however, it’s time to get a toilet snake.
A toilet snake, oftentimes referred to as an auger, is a simple to use device that deploys a long piece of wire with a fat head that can be spun and will clear a clogged toilet. A toilet snake may look ominous to those not used to using them, but it’s a relatively easy tool. Basically, you just align the snake’s head along the bottom of the opening to the toilet, and then you push and turn and the handle, which pushes the snake up through the pipes and either clears or catches whatever is responsible for the clog. Everyone should have a toilet snake—they’re relatively inexpensive—in their box of tricks.
If you have any questions about different types of plungers or toilet snakes, come on in to Ace Hardware, and one of the trusted Ace technicians will be ready to help you find exactly the tool you need.
Here in Montana, it’s commonly thought that Memorial Day marks the beginning of the “safe” time to plant flowers and certain types of vegetables (some types of vegetables grow better in the cooler months of the spring and the fall). The dangers of frost after Memorial Day are, usually, past, and almost every plant will keep outside both day and night. For those of you who don’t have a big enough area to tend a seasonal garden, you can plant a non-permanent garden in pots and planters. And King’s Ace Hardware is stocked with pots and planters that differ in size and shape, even material. And how should you know which type will work best at your home? Here’s a few of the options, and a few helpful tips to help you plant your own garden, successfully.
Types of pots and planters
Pots and Planters can be built from most any material, but the most commonly found are ones made from plastic, ceramic, or terracotta. And there are advantages/disadvantages to using all three. Plastic pots come in various colors and styles. Plastic is durable, and can both heat and or cool quickly, depending. Because plastic is so durable, it’s often made with more drain holes than terracotta or ceramic. However, plastic doesn’t have an eclectic, earthy look that many people are looking for in a pot or planter. Terracotta, on the other hand, looks earthy and beautiful, although it’s not nearly as durable as plastic. Also, terracotta tends to soak up some of the water, so the plants will have to be watered frequently. Ceramic pots are beautiful, but, like terracotta, are somewhat fragile. Ceramic also keeps an even temperature, and comes in a variety of colors and styles.
Organize your own planter
Purchase enough plants to cover the soil of your planter, at least make it invisible from a distance. The arrangement of the plants can be to any style of your liking. Think creatively and have fun with the project. And if you have any questions as to what to plant or how to plant it, speak with the experts at the King’s Ace Hardware.
Like many things, we tend to collect different tools and hardware. Some of the hardware we buy we rarely use, one or maybe two projects, and then it’s set aside in its baggie or tin, lost and forgotten. Oftentimes nails and screws migrate and mingle in our tool boxes, leaving us the guesswork as to which size was which. But there’s a better way. Hopefully the following tips and tricks to staying organized will save you time on your next big project.
Many of us have a favorite nail or screw size, something that we go to repeatedly. For bulk storage, consider cutting the top off a jug—milk, laundry detergent, etc.—to hold the bulk items. The jug can be set on a shelf somewhere, easily accessible. For medium-sized bulk storage consider using jars. You can mark right on the lid of the jar the contents and size. Jars can also be stored hanging vertically beneath a shelf. Just seat the jar lid into the bottom of the shelf with a screw. Magnets also work well for attaching storage items vertically. For smaller bulk storage use muffin tins or small plastic cups, things that can be easily marked and stored. Muffin tins work great, but there’s still a problem of migration, so when you’re storing items in muffin tins, make sure that the hardware stored is not so much alike, that it becomes indiscernible if it does migrate.
Oftentimes we have more money wrapped up into our tools than we do our hardware. Tools should be cared for. One option is to invest in a tool chest, something big made of metal or plastic. Medium-sized tool chests can fit on a shelf or workbench, while larger sizes are usually mounted on casters for easy access and portability around the garage or workshop. Another option that works with some tools, tools that have immediate use like a hammer or a pair of pliers, is to hang pegboard or wall board on the wall of your garage or workshop.
Hopefully these tips will help to keep your home workshop organized, and if you have any more questions as to how to better organize your home workshop, come in and talk with the experts at King’s Ace Hardware today.
One of the most common plumbing issues is a clogged bathroom sink. And, what most people don’t realize, is that with a few tools, and a little knowledge as to how the components of the sink work, anyone can unclog one, easily.
Start by making sure that the stopper (also called the pop-up assembly)—the part of the sink responsible for allowing water to pass into the drain, or, when closed, to keep the water in the sink basin—is extending up high enough to allow water to pass down into the drain. Sometimes the linkage responsible for lifting the stopper has loosened somewhat, and is unable to lift it.
If the stopper is functioning properly, then it’s time to remove it to further investigate the actual drain. Remove the stopper by disconnecting it. If the sink is a part of a vanity, use a bucket to catch any excess water. Looking underneath you will see how the pop-up assembly connects to the main drain pipe, and you should disconnect it, by removing the nut on the main drain pipe.
With the stopper disconnected, take both the stopper and the pop-up assembly (the little arm connected to the drain pipe) and clean them. Oftentimes the stopper will be gunky with hair and toothpaste, and simply cleaning it, will get the sink up and running again. If, however, the blockage is somewhere further down the drain pipe you have a choice of two tools: One is a plastic toothed device that can be inserted down into the drainpipe, where it will extend all the way through the curves in the trap, and, when removed, its teeth will grab at any hair or debris.
If the clog is further, you’ll want to purchase a drain snake (a drain snake is a purchase every homeowner should consider, because with one, you can clear most any clog in any drain in the house) and the drain snake can be deployed with a hand-turned crank (there are power augurs for rent at Ace for the tough jobs).
If you have any further questions as to how to unclog your bathroom’s drain, speak with a pro at Ace Hardware as to which tools would best suit your needs, and get hands-on advice, if need be, as to how to use them.
Holes, dents, and chips in drywall can happen easily. How to repair the damage is determined, usually, by the size of the hole. Here are three ways to repair a damaged wall, with holes ranging from a very small chip or nail hole, to a doorknob sized hole.
How To Repair A Hole In The Drywall
Small holes in the drywall are simple to repair, and, if you take your time, and use the right tools, you can make the hole virtually invisible in little time and with little effort. First, you will need joint compound (spackling is commonly used because it’s cheap and fool proof) and you will need a putty knife or dry wall knife—these come in all sizes, although they work in the same manner. With a putty knife, work the spackling into the hole or chip, don’t be bashful about the amount you put on the wall, make sure you use enough to fill the small hole, and then, when the hole is filled, place the putty knife’s edge flat against the wall just above the hole you’ve filled, and run the knife down over the spackling, and the knife will lift free the excess.
Bigger holes involve the same process as smaller, but more equipment is needed to patch them. For a hole, up to doorknob sized, you can purchase at Ace a wire patch that acts as a support over the hole. The patch comes as a square, the center of which is wire-like-mesh, with adhesive around the edges, and place the patch over the hole. Then use the spackling over the patch. Cover the entire patch with spackling, and again run the knife on its edge down through the spackling to flatten it, removing the excess. Wait for the spackling to dry, and then sand down flat any ridges in the spackling, and then add as many skim coats as needed to completely cover the patch, each time sanding (also as needed) to keep the spackling flat to the wall.
If you have any questions, speak with your Ace Pro at the King’s Ace Hardware as to which tools would be best for the job at your home.
March in Montana is the intermediary month, the month when we can still get a deluge of eight inches of blizzarding snow, or days creeping well-into the fifties and sixties—sometimes both in the same day. March is a great month for many outdoor projects, projects that most of us put off until the warmer months of April, even May. But did you know that March is a great month for building those garden beds? Raised garden beds are simple to build, and don’t require a lot of room (you don’t need acres of land to have a garden, the simplest backyard, even patio will work well, so keep reading if you want to know how.) Also, March and the beginning of April are good months to begin installing sod into the dead or worn patches in your yard, and we’re going to show you how.
Most of us wait until the summer to start laying sod. Oftentimes the sod season correlates with the underground sprinklers turning back on, but oftentimes this is late in the season, and will require a lot of water to keep the newly integrated sod patch soaked. To prepare the location for the sod, take a shovel, a spade shovel works great, although a flat shovel with a sharp edge could also work well, and square off the area, digging down a few inches below the grade of the grass—remember that grass has roots. Then level the area, a few inches below the grade, taking out any rocks or debris that could potentially get in the way of the roots growth. Then just lay the sod and water. Laying sod is a pretty simple project. If you have any questions as to which tools would best suit your next sod project, or if you simply need a pair of work gloves to prevent blisters, stop in and speak with the experts at your local Ace Hardware.
Raised Garden Beds
Raised Garden Beds are simple and easy to build. First, you’ll need some lumber. 2×6’s or 2×4’s work great. You’ll first want to determine the size of your garden. One way is to consider the livable space for your garden plants to be a square foot (obviously larger plants like zucchini require more space). For smaller spaces, build the width to be at least one foot, two works great, and three feet is usually the maximum, because it does get more difficult to reach far enough into the garden to tend the plants in the middle. Then take a tape measure outside and determine then length. Then visit your local Ace Hardware for decking screws, at least three inch, and any tools you will need to build the frame. Oftentimes a circular saw will work just fine, although if you have never used a circular saw, speak with the experts at Ace and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines with the product. You can also purchase fences that will keep the circular saw tracking over the board. A chop saw also works well, and in some regards the setup is quicker and easier. If you have any other questions, the experts at Ace Hardware are ready to answer them.
It may seem strange to you to hear us talking about gardening in February. But, we are. Did you know that for a spring harvest of certain vegetables (those vegetables which are adapted to growing in colder weather) February is the perfect month to start? How do you start a garden in February in Montana you might ask? The answer is simple: you sow the seeds indoors.
Starting seeds indoors gets you a huge jump on the spring growing season, and even the summer growing season—for summer time plants consider sowing those seeds indoors in the spring, and the will be well-established in time for their appropriate planting (In Montana everything can, usually, be planted after Memorial Day weekend—although if you keep an eye on the weather report, a week or two sooner.)
It’s easy to start your plants indoors
To start with you’ll need a place to sow the seeds. Common seed starting trays work very well for this, and you will need to fill the trays with an appropriate blend of potting soil. These seed trays will need to have a stable place to sit, and a good wire shelf works terrific, and, also, because you will also need a light source (you can buy expensive grow lights, or you can buy simple shop lights), this type of shelving works terrific to hang lighting. Also, you will need some type of timer to control the hours of light your plants are getting (this is not a necessity, but your plants will need close to fifteen hours of light every day). The last thing needed is some type of fan, preferably a small room fan, to blow air on the plants, keeping plants dry and in an environment, much like the one outside (it’s important to induce these same types of stresses on the plant as they would receive in the outdoors).
Everything’s set-up, now what?
Depending on your skill or general knowledge as a gardener (If you feel lacking in this department, remember that gardening doesn’t have to be difficult, and the helpful experts at Ace can answer most any question you have) you can sow multiple seeds, multiple types, etc. Once the seeds are sowed, they will need constant watering—more at the beginning—and, especially if you are using shop lights as a light source, keep the rack near a window with near constant sunlight—a window with a southern exposure.
Get your starter seeds at your Local Ace Hardware Store today!